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Arch Linux ARM • View topic – Pogo V4 A101 Mobile Hardware Mods?

Posted July 12, 2014 By Landis V

http://archlinuxarm.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=6040

I picked up a couple of POGO-V4-A1-01’s from eBay for $7.50 apiece shipped and thought I might try using them for sensor devices and/or generic simple alerting systems.  The hardware mod listed in this forum will be very helpful in adding another interface to the device, as my understanding is that it will only boot from the USB or the SATA port, and the device will be much more useful if the USB port is available for peripherals.

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Tiva C Series TM4C1294 Connected LaunchPad – EK-TM4C1294XL – TI Tool Folder

Posted March 10, 2014 By Landis V

http://www.ti.com/tool/ek-tm4c1294xl

Nifty little mini-computer at a pretty low price point.

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Electric Heat Stick Brew Kettle Plan

Posted January 28, 2014 By Landis V

20140104_223859I mentioned in a recent post that I had come into the opportunity to use a nice size stainless steel (formerly steam jacketed) pot as a brew kettle.  My initial thought was that I needed to purchase a considerably larger propane burner with a much higher BTU output, but a friend who has recently completed an electric setup in a converted 15 gallon keg brought up the possibility of crafting a heat stick.

I was somewhat familiar with electric systems from hearing his progress as he went through the build process, but was unfamiliar with electric heat sticks.  The gist of the idea is using a heating element from an electric water heater  as the heat source for a boil kettle.  Perfect for a setup with a borrowed kettle that I don’t want to modify!

There are a number of reference articles, posts, and threads for building full electric systems with kettle-mounted elements, but brewing with heat sticks seems to be a somewhat newer trend.  Even so, there are a number of designs in existence.  The latest generally seem to use an ultra low watt density element, though there are many reports that the regular elements are perfectly suitable and don’t impact even very light lagers.  I’ve already found an element that I think will be suitable assuming I have sufficient watt output.

This post is another of my evolving “project in progress” posts, so it will change and evolve as the project moves from research, planning, and design through the build, test, and finalization phases.

Project potential part/price/location list

Stainless build options/discussion threads

Electrical and Wiring

Abandoned Ideas

2″ Copper Endcap Threaded Into 2″ Stainless Steel Female Cap

20140128_194050 20140128_194035 20140128_194017 2" copper endcap, next to a quarter for thickness comparison.

One of my thoughts was to thread (NPT) the outside of a 2″ copper endcap, apply teflon tape, and thread it into a 2″ stainless steel endcap.  I would bore a centered hole in both caps, and the copper cap would be threaded onto the heating element, flat side toward the element.  An elbow would be threaded into the stainless steel cap and attached to a piece of stainless steel pipe through which wiring for the element would have been run.

I believe I have a threader which would have allowed me to thread the copper endcap, but I had several concerns about the longevity of the design in addition to the questionable cost-effectiveness.  Even Chinese stainless steel 2″ endcaps are north of $20, and that would not include any boring/threading/machining.  I was also concerned about the durability of the union between the relatively thin copper endcap (shown with a quarter standing beside it in the picture above for comparison) and the threaded fitting of the element.

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Kegerator/keezer notes for future analysis

Posted January 4, 2014 By Landis V

Note:  This document is a work in progress and will change frequently.  It’s my kegerator scratch pad if you like.

I got at least a portion of the components for my keezer setup this afternoon, along with a 40 gallon boil kettle and several carboys.  Now we can really make beer, as well as some mead and perhaps some wine in the near future as well.  Making a few notes on the buildout for the keezer.  I don’t plan to complete a final build just yet as I’m only doing four pin lock kegs at present, but I don’t want to have to replace core components such as tubing when I upgrade.  I figure it’s best to just start with fresh o-rings and gaskets in the kegs from the outset.

Article that led me to Bev-Seal Ultra 235.
Forum thread discussing/recommending use of 3/16″ Bev-Seal to reduce foaming, especially on shorter runs and recommendations on how to install.

Dip tube insert that allows reduction of serving pressure or line length
http://www.mcmaster.com/#74695a58/=qe6iu6, discovered from thread at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/cure-your-short-hose-troubles-100151/index2.html. Isopropyl alcohol and/or boiling only to clean due to delryn decomposition (highlighted in several posts in the thread).

BYO article on balancing your distribution system.  And another post from a fluid mechanics expert that points the way if I decide to get into the technical details and calculations for accurate determination of hose lengths, though I’m not sure how readily the information about the Bev-Seal Ultra resistance characteristics will be, and as someone else had mentioned it’s also possible that variance/inaccuracy in our regulators could cause a lot of the variations people seem to experience with line lengths.

Adventures in Homebrewing
Complete 4-keg pinlock system (excluding kegs and tank) for $382.99; can add 10# tank for $60. Part/item 4470-7, $382.99

O-rings, 5 sets, post and dip tube, $4.50 shipped – http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Homebrew-Beer-BALL-or-PIN-LOCK-Cornelius-Keg-Post-Dip-Tube-RED-O-ring-Kits-/151173485689?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2332a45479

Good deal on set of ten gasket/o-ring kits for ball/pin lock on eBay, added to watch list; somewhat up in the air as I understand pin lock o-rings to be slightly thicker than ball lock.

Freezer Layout and Dimensions for Kegerator/Keezer

Measurements

  • Front to back (outside, corners):  21 11/16″
  • Front to back (outside, middle):  21 5/8″
  • End to end (outside, corners):  41 1/4″
  • End to end (outside, middle):  41 3/16
  • Front to back (inside, inner lip):  16 1/4″
  • End to end (inside, inner lip):  35 13/16″
  • Front to back (inside, outer/upper lip):  17 9/16″
  • End to end (inside, outer/upper lip):  37 1/8″
  • Lip width (inner):  7/16″
  • Lip width (outer/upper):  2″
  • Hump width:  11 1/8″
  • Non-hump width:  24 7/8″
  • Hump depth (top of hump to top of inner lip):  18 11/16″
  • Non-hump depth (bottom of main compartment to top of inner lip):  28 3/4″
  • Body front to back (outside):  21 7/16″
  • Body width end to end (outside):  41″
  • Lid front to back (outside):  21 1/2″
  • Lid width end to end (outside):  41 1/16″
  • Lid height:  1 1/2″
  • Top of lid to top of outer lip:  2″

Open Space Measurements

Measurements of remaining open space with a fill equivalent to six pinlock kegs.

  • Main compartment with 4 kegs, open corner at end (smallest measurement):  5″
  • Main compartment with 4 kegs, open corner next to hump (smallest measurement):  5 1/2″
  • Hump open space at corner with six kegs (approximated), maximum:  6 1/4″ x 7 1/4″
  • Top of keg in main compartment to top of inner collar/lip:  6 1/2″
  • Top of keg on hump to top of outer lip (i.e., minimum collar):  3″

Build Process

Temperature Controller

31-Jan-14

After a false start getting an old work junction box that was only two gang, and both too narrow and too deep for the way I wanted to set up my temperature control unit, I was able to get it mostly put together on Friday (31-Jan-14).  I still didn’t get exactly what I wanted, but I was able to make it work.  Ideally I wanted a faceplate with a rectangular outlet opening on one end and the other two spaces blank.  Unfortunately they didn’t have such a thing at the local big box store, so I got a three gang cover with a rectangle on one end and two regular switch outlets in the other spaces.  I chose this option so I wouldn’t leave any random holes or partial cutouts on the faceplate when I made the hole to mount the controller; its mounting hole will consume both of the switch cutouts completely.

20140131_193850

The keezer temperature controller in a “test fit” configuration. I still need to add a connector for the actual temperature sensor, and I think I’ll get a 1/8″ phono jack and plug to accommodate this.

You may or may not have noticed that the mounting holes for electrical cover plates vary with the component installed behind them.  The mount points in the junction box/gang itself are consistent, as all devices mount into them; this is why I wanted the layout I did, so that the space where I make the cutout for the temperature controller itself will mount directly to the box and the outlet space will attach to the outlet.  They don’t appear to make (or the store didn’t have) a mounting assembly that I could use to adapt the gang box mounting holes to fit the narrower spacing of the light switch holes, so I bought a pair of the cheapest generic light switches they had ($.54 each) and removed the actual switch part, then slightly modified them to make two different types of attachment points (see picture below).

20140131_193907 20140131_193919

6-Feb-14

After picking up a few additional parts from Radio Shack to make the temperature sensor modular/disconnectable, I did some wiring this evening.  I can hear the controller relays kicking, but unfortunately it doesn’t appear to be firing the heating or cooling outlets, so I have some troubleshooting to do.

1/8" stereo jack to allow quick disconnect for temperature sensor. I could have used a mono to match the plug, but Radio Shack didn't have one.

1/8″ stereo jack to allow quick disconnect for temperature sensor. I could have used a mono to match the plug, but Radio Shack didn’t have one.

Soldering the 1/8" male mono plug.

Soldering the 1/8″ male mono plug.

The solder job was better before I had to remove and redo it because I forgot to put the housing on the wires first.

The solder job was better before I had to remove and redo it because I forgot to put the housing on the wires first.

Temperature sensor disconnect in place and wired to the relay.

Temperature sensor disconnect in place and wired to the relay.

Front view of the finished temperature sensor disconnect.

Front view of the finished temperature sensor disconnect.

Temperature sensor disconnect with sensor attached.

Temperature sensor disconnect with sensor attached.

Wiring the outlet. Note the split outlets (the removable bridge between the screws is... removed).

Wiring the outlet. Note the split outlets (the removable bridge between the screws is… removed).

Wiring the outlets into the STC-1000.

Wiring the outlets into the STC-1000.

Hacked together for a test run with a pigtail I keep on hand.

Hacked together for a test run with a pigtail I keep on hand.

Final view of the connections. Unfortunately not working, but I think it's an issue with the controler.

Final view of the connections. Unfortunately not working, but I think it’s an issue with the controler.

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My Stirplate… Cheap and Easy Build… – Home Brew Forums

Posted December 23, 2013 By Landis V

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-stirplate-cheap-easy-build-86252/

How to build a stir plate with parts I probably already have on hand.

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1-Wire USB Interface – CodeProject

Posted November 27, 2013 By Landis V

USB-Serial CH340

via 1-Wire USB Interface – CodeProject.

I’ve been wanting to do some temperature sensing/tracking for some time, and this looks like the way to do it. I’ve ordered some CH340’s off of eBay for $.99 each and bid on some DS18B20 1-wire sensors at about $1.20 each. My hope is to be able to interface these to a USB port on one of my Pogo E02’s and have a better idea what ambient temperatures are doing in my fermenting area.

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Multi-IR remote

Posted September 1, 2013 By Landis V

This, possibly in combination with this (or at least the software component thereof), might be a simpler solution to something I was thinking about today.  I have an XBMC remote control application on my phone and tablets which I like for several reasons.  It’s always handy and never lost – or at least easily found – are among the top of these.  This got me thinking about running an IP-to-IR remote so I could leave an IR transmitter in some fixed location always pointed at remote controlled electronic devices, and just use my always handy Android to manage channels on all the devices.  As an added bonus, the webmote software might provide an option to integrate all the remotes into one single control interface rather than needing different remotes for TV, DVD player, surround sound, and XBMC.

My original thought was just to figure out a way to integrate a USB port on an existing remote control and basically trigger the sending of the commands, but this would probably be more universal and likely much less thought and work intensive.

I found ATmega 88’s here for around $3 each, but haven’t reviewed the full parts list yet.

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