http://joshthebrewmaster.wordpress.com/2010/11/27/how-to-make-belgian-candi-sugar/
I heard about making one’s own candi sugar from a friend today, so this made my list as well. I’m pleasantly surprised at how straightforward it is, and another item on the seemingly endless list of things one can learn without half trying once introduced to the hobby of brewing.
Note: This document is a work in progress and will change frequently. It’s my kegerator scratch pad if you like.
I got at least a portion of the components for my keezer setup this afternoon, along with a 40 gallon boil kettle and several carboys. Now we can really make beer, as well as some mead and perhaps some wine in the near future as well. Making a few notes on the buildout for the keezer. I don’t plan to complete a final build just yet as I’m only doing four pin lock kegs at present, but I don’t want to have to replace core components such as tubing when I upgrade. I figure it’s best to just start with fresh o-rings and gaskets in the kegs from the outset.
Article that led me to Bev-Seal Ultra 235.
Forum thread discussing/recommending use of 3/16″ Bev-Seal to reduce foaming, especially on shorter runs and recommendations on how to install.
Dip tube insert that allows reduction of serving pressure or line length
http://www.mcmaster.com/#74695a58/=qe6iu6, discovered from thread at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/cure-your-short-hose-troubles-100151/index2.html. Isopropyl alcohol and/or boiling only to clean due to delryn decomposition (highlighted in several posts in the thread).
BYO article on balancing your distribution system. And another post from a fluid mechanics expert that points the way if I decide to get into the technical details and calculations for accurate determination of hose lengths, though I’m not sure how readily the information about the Bev-Seal Ultra resistance characteristics will be, and as someone else had mentioned it’s also possible that variance/inaccuracy in our regulators could cause a lot of the variations people seem to experience with line lengths.
Adventures in Homebrewing
Complete 4-keg pinlock system (excluding kegs and tank) for $382.99; can add 10# tank for $60. Part/item 4470-7, $382.99
O-rings, 5 sets, post and dip tube, $4.50 shipped – http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Homebrew-Beer-BALL-or-PIN-LOCK-Cornelius-Keg-Post-Dip-Tube-RED-O-ring-Kits-/151173485689?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2332a45479
Good deal on set of ten gasket/o-ring kits for ball/pin lock on eBay, added to watch list; somewhat up in the air as I understand pin lock o-rings to be slightly thicker than ball lock.
Measurements of remaining open space with a fill equivalent to six pinlock kegs.
After a false start getting an old work junction box that was only two gang, and both too narrow and too deep for the way I wanted to set up my temperature control unit, I was able to get it mostly put together on Friday (31-Jan-14). I still didn’t get exactly what I wanted, but I was able to make it work. Ideally I wanted a faceplate with a rectangular outlet opening on one end and the other two spaces blank. Unfortunately they didn’t have such a thing at the local big box store, so I got a three gang cover with a rectangle on one end and two regular switch outlets in the other spaces. I chose this option so I wouldn’t leave any random holes or partial cutouts on the faceplate when I made the hole to mount the controller; its mounting hole will consume both of the switch cutouts completely.
The keezer temperature controller in a “test fit” configuration. I still need to add a connector for the actual temperature sensor, and I think I’ll get a 1/8″ phono jack and plug to accommodate this.
You may or may not have noticed that the mounting holes for electrical cover plates vary with the component installed behind them. The mount points in the junction box/gang itself are consistent, as all devices mount into them; this is why I wanted the layout I did, so that the space where I make the cutout for the temperature controller itself will mount directly to the box and the outlet space will attach to the outlet. They don’t appear to make (or the store didn’t have) a mounting assembly that I could use to adapt the gang box mounting holes to fit the narrower spacing of the light switch holes, so I bought a pair of the cheapest generic light switches they had ($.54 each) and removed the actual switch part, then slightly modified them to make two different types of attachment points (see picture below).
After picking up a few additional parts from Radio Shack to make the temperature sensor modular/disconnectable, I did some wiring this evening. I can hear the controller relays kicking, but unfortunately it doesn’t appear to be firing the heating or cooling outlets, so I have some troubleshooting to do.
1/8″ stereo jack to allow quick disconnect for temperature sensor. I could have used a mono to match the plug, but Radio Shack didn’t have one.
Soldering the 1/8″ male mono plug.
The solder job was better before I had to remove and redo it because I forgot to put the housing on the wires first.
Temperature sensor disconnect in place and wired to the relay.
Front view of the finished temperature sensor disconnect.
Temperature sensor disconnect with sensor attached.
Wiring the outlet. Note the split outlets (the removable bridge between the screws is… removed).
Wiring the outlets into the STC-1000.
Hacked together for a test run with a pigtail I keep on hand.
Final view of the connections. Unfortunately not working, but I think it’s an issue with the controler.
“Data is not information, information is not knowledge, knowledge is not understanding, and understanding is not wisdom.”
–Clifford Stroll
From http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/answer-sheet/wp/2013/12/31/i-would-love-to-teach-but/
I set up Simple Invoices this evening for some basic billing I need to do (and automate). Pretty straightforward for the basic part. I did discover that there was a bug for the recurring invoicing that was reported as fixed, but apparently still exists. Fairly simple fix – assuming your “simpleinvoices” install is in /var/www/simpleinvoices, run:
vim /var/www/simpleinvoices/include/class/cron.php
Issue a “:117” (followed by enter) in vim, then add a closing quote to the line referenced in the link above.
Still working on my invoicing emails, as I don’t run a mail server on the host I run the service on, and need to get it set up to send messages through my gmail – or actually configure a basic mail server. Will see what works the best.
http://www.networkworld.com/news/2013/121813-new-ddos-malware-targets-linux-277059.html
Linux has finally achieved enough market penetration to be worthwhile to attack. Not desktop market penetration per se, but market penetration nonetheless. The particular platforms where it can be found with relative frequency fundamentally contribute to the reasons the attacks are successful – they are home user devices that aren’t likely to be updated. I surmise that within the next three to five years, we’ll see a tipping point where many of these network devices will default to automatically update themselves in much the same manner our operating systems, browsers, and many applications in both the mobile and desktop realm do today.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/slanting-yeast-133103/index15.html#post2286547
Cynmar vials referenced in this post seem to be ideal for yeast slants, and appear to handle autoclaving well. Looked them up on the Cynmar website and they appear to be a pretty low-cost item as well. Probably makes sense to order through them as A.) these don’t appear to be available on Amazon, B.) they also carry Erlenmeyer flasks at a lower price and possibly better quality than reviews indicated were likely to be seen from the brewing site I was looking to order from.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/slanting-yeast-133103/
Nice article on getting started with yeast slanting, including equipment recommendations and some good how-to information
http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/yeast-propagation-and-maintenance-principles-and-practices
Quite an in-depth reference to yeast health and how to build a starter from a slant.
http://bootlegbiology.com/diy/capturing-yeast/
Capturing wild yeast.
http://bkyeast.wordpress.com/2012/02/19/selective-media-part-i/
Selective culturing of various yeasts, with information on use of potatoes as an agar.
You are currently browsing the archives for the Links category.
